- Academy of Culinary Arts
Founded in 1980, the Academy of Culinary Arts, is Britain's leading professional association of Head Chefs, Pastry Chefs, Restaurant Managers and suppliers.
See also 'Chefs Adopt a School'.
- acre
Long before the Norman conquest in 1066, Saxon farmers in England were measuring areas in acres. An acre is a measure of land area derived from an old English word meaning 'open land' (aecer) and it the area which can be ploughed by one man, with one ox in one day, which is why many strips of agricultural acres of land were rectangular in shape, being one 'furlong' (from one 'furrow' long) or 10 chains or 40 rods in length (220 yards) and a chain or 4 rods in width (22 yards).
An acre, therefore is equal to 4840 square yards (4046.85 square metres). By the way there are four 'roods' to an acre.
An average football pitch is about 2 acres in size, so 1 acre would be equivalent to half the size of an average football pitch
The acre is still very much in use and land use is still expressed in acres, never in square miles, and any large expanse is still described as "acres of land".
An old name for a ploughman is 'acreman' or 'ackerman'.
My father left me three acres of land,
Sing ivy, sing ivy;
My father left me three acres of land,
Sing holly, go whistle and ivy!
Dialect: ferdhyn-tyr = land-farthing (quarter of Cornish acre).
[US-Canada-Aus-NZ-Eire]
- afternoon tea
The British, and especially the English, used to 'take' tea in the afternoon between 3pm and 4pm and are renowned for not letting war, revolutions, earthquakes or imminent death get in the way of it. Tea is obviously involved, and also some type of cake.
Anna, 7th Duchess of Bedford (1783-1857) is credited with introducing 'afternoon tea' to England in around 1830. She regularly invited friends over to her home at Woburn Abbey in Bedfordshire and the habit spread. Afternoon tea' was exported throughout the empire and still continues in far off countries though the tradition has largely died out in everyday life in Britain, because we are all so busy. Yet we still like to enjoy afternoon tea when we are on holiday, even if we stay at home, and even if we only have biscuits, though many of us still value cake, as a treat, in the afternoon.
'Cream teas' are a particularly special kind of afternoon tea which should be taken at every opportunity. Hotels still offer proper afternoon teas, though you might need a bank loan to afford one. Make your own, it's easy.
In Norfolk a tea break in the afternoon (during harvesting) was known as 'fourses'.
Quote: "The Englishman who visits Mount Etna will carry his tea-kettle to the top." ~ Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-1882, American philosopher and poet).
See also 'tea', 'tea drinking', 'teapot', Victoria sandwich' and 'tea cosy'.
- agricultural and game shows
Agricultural shows, often including game shows (or fairs) are an integral part of rural life and are the highlight of the year for many rural communities. They are a very British kind of organised madness. They can be tiny village affairs or huge events covering many fields. A few are still very traditional and restrict their content to domesticated animals and edible plants but many communities use the event as the climax for many local non-agricultural interests and sports. The smaller events will still have strong links with the church and with the community but the larger ones tend to be run on a commercial basis.
The content of these shows varies as the organisers struggle with the balance which needs to be met between local community and the desire to attract cash rich tourists, but the traditional content still remains strong and with an increasing interest in rare breads and locally grown foods the shows are experiencing an upturn in popularity.
At all shows you will find the judging of animals, vegetables and flowers taking place but the centre judging ring these days will be also occupied by animal agility/control demonstrations/competitions (usually dogs and pigs), vintage vehicle and/or traction engine rallies, sheep dog trials, and gymkhanas. Rivalry in the cake judging and jam/chutney making is not for the feint hearted. At all shows it is customary to employ an indecipherable 'public address' system echoing in a heavy local accent which occasionally laughs at its own witty comments. And the shows wouldn't be complete without an orderly queue outside wobbly, smelly plastic toilets
You may also witness, or participate in, such wonderous things as ferret racing, ducking stools, ploughing races, straw bale throwing and worm charming.
The smaller shows are the most interesting as they are places where, once a year, respected members of the local community will enthusiastically allow themselves to be made a fool of (with or without a costume). They are also the stronghold of raffles, tombolas, and church roof repair funds. The traditional 'bring and buy' stalls have given way to 'car boots'.
Shows and fairs are places where small wide eyed children can sit on a tank, ring the bell in a fire engine and feel overwhelming fear as they look up into the eyes of a giant but indifferent shire horse. They can pat a lamb, have their clothes nibbled by a goat and their legs gently pecked by a goose, and then make themselves vomit on all manner of sickly goodies.
Costumes amongst the crowd are interesting to look for and you may spot re-enactment societies, Morris dancers, highland dancers, scouts, sports outfits (including huge tug-o-war men in massive boots).
Uniformed first aiders prowl the crowds in pairs, sometimes in packs, looking for custom to descend upon and they can often be seen escorting a lost child (in tears) to the organisers tent where several expectant parents will be gathered, eyes darting around the crowed.
There are over 400 shows across the country and there will be one near you.
- alcohol still
An alcohol still is a contraption which converts fermented fluids into alcohol through the process of distillation.
Strict laws have eradicated the small alcohol still from British cultures with Scotland being the last outpost (5,000 convictions in the 1820's). Occasionally they turn up at antique auctions recently found hidden in a cellar or the back of a barn. Stills are now only to be found in large scale operations, in distilleries, apparently.
On the continent laws are much more relaxed and so local drinks and liqueurs have survived and there is talk here of our laws being relaxed to encourage greater variety and the revival of local drinks and traditions.
- ale
'Ale' is an alternative name for 'beer' and nowadays interchangeable with it, though originally 'ale' was the word used to describe beer which was made with barley but no hops. Hops were introduced, from Europe, in the early 16th century.
Before hops were introduced into Britain (in the 13th century) beer was flavoured, or 'bittered' with naturally occurring local plants such as hyssop and flavoured with things such as heather, rosemary, and honey.
- ale taster
Ale tasters were an early form of trading standards regulator and was a medieval post which ensured the quality of ale, but also generated revenue for landowners, and for the church by fining brewers who didn't come up to scratch.
- Alexis Benoit Soyer
1810 - 1858. A chef, humanitarian, organiser and an inventor. He was a French chef who fled to England during the French revolution, and became the very first celebrity cook, being famous in Victorian London. Though he served fine food to the rich his heart was with the poor and starving to whom he offered his skills. Later he also published two books for them ('The Poor Man's Regenerator' (1847) and 'Shilling Cookery for the People' (1854).
He was not only known for his eccentric personality, and for his cooking ability, but also he was famous for his innovation, something which would have appealed to the Victorians. Amongst other things he instituted cooking on gas, early refrigerators, steam lifts and high tech adjustable temperature ovens.
He also invented the 'soup kitchen', a portable kitchen unit, and he was invited by the British government to implement his idea in Ireland, in 1847, during the Irish Famine. He developed the idea further and renamed it the 'magic stove'. During the Crimean War Soyer joined the troops (at his own expense) to advise the army on cooking and it was here that he developed the first army fields stove known as the 'Soyer Stove', variations of which remained in military service up to the first Gulf War and were still known as 'Soyer Stoves'. At that time he also introduced the idea that each regiment should have a dedicated regimental cook and he trained men to fulfil this role, and, as if that wasn't enough, he organised the kitchen operations at Florence Nightingales hospital. When he died he was designing a mobile kitchen unit for the British army.
An extraordinary man largely forgotten by history.
- allotment
1
Allotments are small parcels of land rented to individuals usually for the purpose of growing food crops. There is no set standard size but the most common plot is 10 rods, an ancient measurement equivalent to 302 square yards or 253 square metres.
Allotments (or 'lotties') have, since the industrial revolution, played an important part in our food and social history, being places where we can recreate the rural, agricultural setting from which we all once came. They give a family food security and a sense of pride and independence. Also, as a bonus, it's a pleasant way to rub shoulders with members of the community we might not otherwise have cause to interact with, and a chance to tap into the wisdom of the elders.
Although the history of allotments goes back beyond the reign of Elizabeth the 1st they gained their greatest popularity during the last two great wars when our islands were blockaded by Germany, and especially in the last war where they were a major feature in the 'Dig for Victory' campaign.
There was a decline in demand after the war which accelerated when mass produced, processed food became cheaply available in the 1950's and 60's, and also as we gave up outdoor and 'improving' pursuits in favour of shopping, watching the telly and festering. Their decline resulted in an ageing allotment population and many sites fell into dis-use and were sold off, but now the allotments are being invigorated with new ideals and ideas, and once again children are being schooled in the art of 'how to feed yourself'. They say that growing your own food is no cheaper than buying it, and they may be right, but that's not really the point is it? I'd rather have a spud from down the road than one from Bolivia even if it was half the price of a home grown one.
The demand for allotments has increased in recent years, (a measure of the distrust of scientists and of intensive farming methods), so much so that there is nationally a waiting list of 76,000 people (2009). About a quarter of us grow our own fruit and veg.
See also: 'potato day', 'plant swap', 'soil association' and 'home grown'.
Lane's Extinction Grading: Safe
- Nationally produced and/or consumed
- Very strong traditions in one village, town, county or region.
- Allotment Act
There have been several pieces of allotment legislation, all linked to social and economic situations of their time.
The first 'Allotment Act' 1887 (more properly known as the 'Allotments and Cottage Gardens Compensation for Crops Act 1887') obliged local authorities to provide allotments if there was a demand for them but local authorities resisted complying with the act and revision was required to strengthen the act.
The Smallholding and Allotment Act 1907 imposed responsibilities on parish, urban district and borough councils to provide allotments and further legislation in 1908 consolidated previous acts and resolved various anomalies.
The Allotment Act of 1950 was in response to the Allotments Advisory Body's recommendations of the provision of 4 acres of allotments per 1,000 head of population.
The Allotment Act can be viewed on the 'Office of Public Sector Information' website.
- allotments associations
Allotment associations are very old possibly since the The 'Allotment Act' 1887 (Allotments and Cottage Gardens Compensation for Crops Act 1887) which obliged local authorities to provide allotments if there was a demand for them but local authorities resisted complying with the act and revision was required to strengthen the act. The Smallholding and Allotment Act 1907 imposed responsibilities on parish, urban district and borough councils to provide allotments and further legislation in 1908 consolidated previous acts and resolved various anomalies.
The majority of allotment plots are local authority owned and associations were formed to manage the land and the land users. The formation of allotment associations increased during the war years.
Increasingly private allotment associations are being formed partly as a result of resistance of local authorities to meet public demand (some things never change eh?).
- allspice
'Allspice' is a spice made from the unripe fruit of the 'Pimenta doica' plant which is bush or tree like plant native to South America.
It was so named by the English (circa 1620's) because they thought it tasted of a combination of several favourite aromatic spices particularly nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves.
Since its introduction it has been a favourite ingredient in English pickling spice recipes and has also found its way into many British foods.
Allspice is now cultivated in many warm climates, throughout the world, and has found its was into many traditional dishes in the regions where the plant is cultivated.
It is sold as whole berries or as powdered allspice but the berries have a longer shelf life and provide a more aromatic spice when freshly milled.
See also 'pickling spice'.
- almond cake / tart
Guess what these are made from? Amazingly an almond free version has appeared due to fear of litigation from allergy sufferers. The world has gone mad! Surely there is a clue in the name, or is it just me? If there was something in my world which could easily poison me I would make an effort to learn its name and not put it in my mouth.
- alpha acid
The part of the hop plant which lends bitterness to beer.
- amber
An 'amber' is an old Saxon English unit of volume, used for both liquids and dry goods, and has been obsolete for centuries.
The size of the amber is debatable as no official record exists, only references to it in various texts. Modern scholars have put is size at between 2 and 40 gallons however there is a popular opinion that its Teutonic origins put an amber at half of a 'mitta', 4 bushels or 32 gallons (145.5 litres).
- anchovy paste
Anchovy paste used to be more popular than it is now and there were many makers of it. All supplied their paste in small, white, disk like ceramic pots and this tradition continues today, notably with 'Gentleman's relish' (1828 - and also known as 'patum peperium'). Anchovy paste tends to be strong and quite salty and is spread on toast or crackers (e.g. Bath Oliver's and water biscuits) or used in cooking.
Anchovies are common ingredients in many traditional British sauces and ketchups.
- Angelica / garden Angelica
4
Angelica (Angelica archangelica) is a stout, biennial, umbelleferae which grows, in its second year, up to 2 metres high. Angelica is very hardy and was a favourite vegetable in arctic regions of northern Europe, the only vegetable which would grow in Greenland apparently, so it should do all right in your garden.
All parts of the plant are edible (though the root is poisonous when fresh) and recipes exist to make use of every bit of it. It has a very distinctive taste when cooked and the buns I ate when I was a small boy, which were made with sugared Angelica decoration on top, were my favourite, even more popular than crunchy ball bearings. The little jars of emerald green sugared chopped stems have virtually disappeared from shops, and our lives.
Sugared or candied Angelica is easily made by boiling the stems in sugar. The stems can be used on cakes and buns, or in ice cream. The syrup which results from the boiling can also be used in ice cream, on ice cream, and in drinks. Angelica soup is made from the leaves. Angelica jam, and butter, are made from the stems. A liqueur can be made from the roots and gin is sometimes flavoured with Angelica. Tea can be made from the seeds. Young raw stems have a similar flavour to celery and can be used in salads.
Angelica has a long history of use as a medicinal plant, especially the dried root.
This plant, when cooked, has such a wonderful and distinctive taste that I'm amazed we gave up on it so easily.
if you keep picking off the flowering stems, the plant will remain perennial.
The seeds will grow best as soon as they are given up by the plant.
The hollow stems are perfect for making pea shooters or novelty drinking straws.
See also: 'pea shooters', fat rascals' and 'Sweet Cicely'.
Lane's Extinction Grading: On the brink.
- Difficult to find, on the brink of extinction.
- Revived by an individual or by a few culturally unconnected individuals.
- angels on horseback
Oysters wrapped in bacon and baked in an oven. Sometimes scallops may be used instead of oysters. English in origin.
- angels share
The 'angels share' is the alcohol which evaporates through a barrel during the maturing period (which can be decades). The amount lost can be as much as 2 percent per year.
- Anglesey eggs
Made from mashed potato, leeks, cheese and hard boiled eggs. A Welsh 'left-overs' dish which originally made use of left-over spud and old hard cheese. Ingredients are layered and then the dish is baked in the oven.
- apiary
A collection of bee hives, in one place, is known as an 'apiary' and a bee keeper may have two or more apiaries in different locations. Apiaries which are not on home ground are known as 'out' apiaries.
Temporary apiaries may be established to take advantage of a particular seasonal abundance of one particular nectar (e.g. heather) and the resulting honey will be marketed as such. Similar apiaries may also be set up in the middle of large crops (such as rape seed) in order to increase the crop yield for the farmer as well as to give the beekeeper a specific tasting honey to sell. The beekeeper may rent out his hives to the farmer or he might be happy with just the honey.
See also: 'hive'.
- apitherapy
Apitherapy is the use of honey bee products for medicinal purposes.
This can include the use of honey, pollen, bee bread, propolis, royal jelly, and bee venom.
Many medical conditions have, under laboratory conditions, responded to bee venom treatment, and British beekeepers have a long standing belief that arthritis is improved, and even prevented, with multiple bee stings.
Many people also belief that the consumption of honey containing local pollen is a natural treatment for allergies and asthma, particularly in the young.
Bee venom treatment has been around for hundreds of years and with increasing concerns over the long term effects of modern drugs, it is enjoying a modest revival in western countries.
See also: 'beekeeper'.
- apostle spoon
3
Apostle spoons originated from the early fifteenth century and were popular in Europe but particularly in England. The spoons depicted the apostles and came in sets of twelve (or thirteen if Jesus was depicted). In latter years they were associated with the Wesleyan methodist church where they were always in sets of seven. Adults brought up in a Wesleyan upbringing will be able to tell you all about them. Occasionally they can be found at flea markets, rattling around in bargain cutlery boxes, but rarely as a full set.
Apostle spoons were nearly always silver, or silver plated. Modern ones are tea spoon sized and each have a symbol of an apostle on the handle and are supposed to represent the apostles at the last supper. Though used as posh tea spoons they were also popular as baptism presents for children and the tradition of buying a single silver spoon as a christening gift still survives today in England, and you can still buy apostle spoons.
See also: 'spoon'.
Lane's Extinction Grading: Unsafe/Decline
- Still enjoyed by the older generation in one area.
- Enjoyed by dwindling numbers (shunned by pretentious people and kids).
- Sucessfully revived in small pockets for a few families.
- apple
Apples have an important place in our food history and crop up as an ingredient in traditional dishes all over Britain, especially in England. Large scale cultivation was initiated by Henry VIII after the 'black death' and later by British growers during the Empire days who created hundreds of new varieties, often suited to specific local conditions. In the 19th century there were over 2,000 varieties. Though popularity for the different tastes of apple varieties has waned (in favour of bland, shiny, perfectly round, tasteless, supermarket uniformity) the national fruit collection at Brogdale holds over 650 native British varieties, often bred to suit specific local conditions, and waiting for someone to grow them again. Brogdale operates a grafting service and will supply rare cultivars to growers. In the 19th century all these varieties were eaten but today only 9 varieties are stocked in shops (2010).
The most popular English variety, the Bramley apple, is 200 years old and it bicentenary was celebrated in 2009. Cox's Orange Pippin, an 'eating' apple is a bit younger, appearing in 1825. Apple production has been devastated in Britain due to imports, and Britain currently produces only 35% of apples sold in Britain (compared to the 60-70% we produced in the 1970's). 25 years ago there were 1,500 commercial apple growers but today (2011) there are 500, but apple growers are fighting back, with new planting and with new growing techniques, and their aim, with our help, is to move us back towards national self sufficiency. The soils and weather of England provide excellent apple growing conditions, but they need us to buy their apples. How we have arrived at a situation where tasty apples we could all grow in our gardens have to be imported from half way around the world is beyond me.
Alternative uses: : Comparing a person to an apple has resulted in the following sayings: One rotten apple can spoil the rest, and an apple doesn't fall far from the tree. It is also possible for you to be the 'apple of someone's eye' which means that they would be proud of you, or that they would admire you.
Dialect: 'avallom' (apple tree-Cornwall), 'red roolers' (delicious eating apple - Cornwall), 'middlings' and 'scrumps' (Small or unripe apple left on the tree-Kent), 'crumptins' (small deformed apples - Cornwall), 'shockled' or 'shrockled' (shrivelled apple-Kent), 'hallan apple' (apple given to children on All Hallows Eve - Cornwall).
An apple a day keeps the doctor away
Apple in the morning - Doctor's warning
Roast apple at night - starves the doctor outright
Origin: Apple comes from the Saxon 'aeppel'.
See also: 'crab apple', 'Bramley apple', 'Pearmain apple', 'Cox's Pippin', 'biffins', 'Brogdale', 'apple acquiring', 'toffee apple', apple bobbing', 'cider' and 'community orchard projects'.
Lane's Extinction Grading: Very Safe
Culturally exported so globally produced and consumed (i.e. its fate does not rest soley in our hands).
- apple acquiring
There are special names, used by kids, for the collecting of wild apples, or for the acquiring of apples from uncared for, or unattended apple trees. The most widely used is 'scrumping' but In parts of Yorkshire the activity is known as 'apple kipping' and in Norfolk it is 'chorring'. Any more?
- apple bobbing / ducking
An ancient game by which floating apples are retrieved from a barrel using the mouth only. Traditionally played at Holloween but the game used to pop up at jumble sales, country shows and fairs, etc. Modern concerns for health and safety have severely reduced this game's popularity but it is still seen at some family events and the odd public gathering.
- apple charlotte
An 'apple Charlotte' is made in a pudding bowl (or similar) and is made with a bread lining crust (soaked in melted butter) with layers of sliced apple under the bottom crust, and the inside is filled with cooked apple pieces. The top is finished off with more bread.
Said to be named after Queen Charlotte, wife to George III.
- Apple Day
Apple Day has no fixed date but is a local celebration of the apple harvest and takes place on a day which suits the local conditions, but is nearly always in September or October.
Apple Day usually involves enthusiastic people, apple presses, apple products and lots of different varieties of apples, especially local ones. The event can vary in size from being huge, taking up a whole field, or can be small pub or church run affairs.
They are places where you can meet local growers, try local apples, get free advice, make new friends and drink freshly pressed apple juice the likes of which you will never have tasted before.
Cider making workshops or courses may be available and some events encourage people to bring their harvest and press owners will press them into juice for you so that you can make your own cider at home.
If you are thinking of growing apples or want to know what to do with your apple harvest then go to an apple day.
Though 'apple days' are different to cider festivals the two seem to have a large overlap and can sometimes be indistinguishable.
See also: 'cider festival'.
- Apple mint / round leaved mint / woolly mint (Mentha suaveolens)
Apple mint is easy to spot by its woolly round leaves and its robust, tall (40cm to 1m high), erect stems. Its leaves are lighter in colour than other mints and wider, giving them the rounded oval shape. Its ability to grow high allows it to live happily amongst other tall plants, tall grass and weeds but it's not as invasive as some other types of mint. Its great against a wall.
Though it has a wonderful taste I find the subtle flavour of apple mint fades quickly when subjected to heat making it unsuitable for tea. If you add it to new potatoes do so at the last minute, to the drained potatoes, chopped finely and add with a knob of butter. Added in this way they will be excellent but if you add them to the hot water you will just end up with soggy, tasteless grassy bits.
But its great when used cold in salads, punches, fruit juices and smoothies.
Apple mint has a good scent, even after drying for a few days, and so can be used in a pot pouri.
See also: 'mint'.
- apple pie
A favourite British pie made with cooking apples (e.g. 'Bramley') and served, hot or cold, with custard or cream. Available all year round as the pie can be made from dried, canned or frozen, apples. Apple tart, an open pie (sometimes with a pastry lattice top), is less common.
- apple pomace
The first part of the process of cider making is to mill or pound the apples and the resulting lumpy mush is known as 'apple pomace', though dialect names also exist such as 'muck' (Cornwall). The modern way is to put the apples through a 'scratter'
See also: 'scratter', 'cider' and 'brake'.
- apple sauce
1
Apple sauce is traditionally is still served with pork but was once served with any fatty food and would have been preferred slightly tart to cut through the fat, but these days, like everything else, its full of sugar, out of place on a savoury dish, and often too sickly and slimy to put on anything.
See also: 'Yorkshire Goose Sauce'.
Lane's Extinction Grading: Safe
- Nationally produced and/or consumed
- Very strong traditions in one village, town, county or region.
- aquaculture
Aquaculture or 'aqua farming' is any farming which takes place in or on water and involves fish, crustaceans, molluscs and aquatic plants. Aquaculture can take place in fresh or salt water, in open or controlled conditions.
See also 'hydroponics'.
- Arbroath smokies
1
Headed, gutted, haddock, salted for 2 hours, then tied into pairs at the tail, and hot smoked until they look like smoked bats. They are equally good hot or cold. Not surprisingly originating from Arbroath, in Scotland, or more correctly from Auchmithie, a village 3 miles north of Arbroath. Sadly Auchmithie has missed its chance for global fame. The commercial production of this wonderful food, which I used to eat hot, straight from the smoke boxes on Arbroath harbour, stopped briefly due to lack of demand, but has now made a welcomed come-back. Originally 'smokies' were made in pits, or in buried barrels.
Lane's Extinction Grading: Safe
- Nationally produced and/or consumed
- Very strong traditions in one village, town, county or region.
- Army and Navy tablets
A liquorice flavoured confectionary, somewhat like cough sweets, and originally came in a big red tin.
- Ashdown partridge pudding
U
An upper class suet pudding made from old birds, originally taken from Winnie the Pooh's forest (Ashdown forest), but don't tell your kids (unless they are winding you up). The dish also contains a lump of steak in the bottom, plus mushrooms and herbs. Also add wine and stock. I think it is compulsory to have a hyphenated name and to own a shooting stick before they'll let you eat this.
Lane's Extinction Grading: Unknown!
Not yet fully investigated, cannot make an assessment.
- asparagus
Asparagus is one of the very few things which I actually believe was brought here by the Romans (along with aqueducts). Only the young shoots are eaten and the Vale of Evesham is considered the epicentre of English asparagus production though it is now widely grown across England. Traditionally harvesting used to take place from St. George's day (23rd April) and for six weeks after but modern production methods allow harvesting to take place earlier and the season has been extended to twelve weeks. I once saw Asparagus, out of season in a supermarket, it was from Peru (and had collected more air miles than me).
Also known as 'sparrow' or 'sparra' grass.
See also: 'Battersea bundles'.
- Atholl brose
A Scottish drink made from whisky, oatmeal, honey, cream and eggs. A pudding of the same name and made from the same ingredients also exists.